Sunday 27 January 2013

Sat 19 - Thur 24 Jan - Laos

We were lucky that our transfer from Vietnam to Laos was by air rather than the 12 hour drive of previous tours! An hour's flight took us to the capital of Laos, Vientiene. The city was tranquil and clean in contrast to Hanoi we had just left and it made a pleasant change. We checked into our central hotel early evening and then went to an outside restaurant for supper.




Cherin recommended the local hot pot and after seeing the alternatives ready to be chosen and grilled for you which included whole fish, frogs and birds on skewers, we decided to go for his recommendation. The hot pot is kind of a do it yourself soup where they bring you a pot of boiling stock as well as meat, fresh veg, chilli, garlic and rice noodles. You throw some each into the pot, wait for it to boil for a few minutes and then use your chopsticks to eat it from the pot with some sticky rice - yummy!




We then wandered around the night market which was also pleasant as the Laos people are so quiet and gentle so no one was hassling you to buy and we were free to just wander through and admire all the lovely handcrafts for sale. We sampled the local pancakes - made on a road side stall and a cross between a very thin pizza base and a crepe cooked on a skottle then filled with Nutella and sliced banana and topped with condensed milk. It was divine and we ate it while walking back to our hotel.



The next morning we were out early as we only had half a day to explore Vientiene before we were back on the road at lunchtime. We hired a tuk tuk for half a day to take us around.


Our first stop was at Cope - a rehabilitation centre for victims of bombs dropped in the 1970's by the Americans during what is known as "the Secret War". Cluster bombs were dropped throughout the country and caused mass deaths and injuries of the Laos people, but what is even worse is that thousands of the unexploded bombs landed in fields and forests and over the years have been detonated by farmers and children and continue to injure and kill. We watched a documentary about how Mag are working with and training the local people to be aware of, and how to deal with the thousands of cluster bombs that still litter the country. The rehabilitation centre helps people who have survived horrendous injuries and to fit them with prosthetic limbs where possible. It was a real eye opening visit and very emotional to see details of the horrors of a war I knew nothing about.

We then got back in our tuk tuk and visited Wat Si Saket, the oldest and most important wat in Vientiene, which contains over 6000 Buddhas. Next stop was Haw Pah Kaew which was originally built in 1565 as a royal temple to house the Emerald Buddha. In 1778 the emerald buddha was sent to the royal palace in Bangkok and Haw Pah Kaew is now a museum with superb examples of Buddhist art and architecture.


 

 

 


After a quick lunch of noodle soup at a local restaurant we were into our lovely comfy mini bus which was a great contrast to the rickety buses we had used to travel Vietnam. One of the advantages of being only a small group on this leg of our tour! The four hour drive from Vientiene to the small town of Vang Vieng took us along windy narrow roads and gave us a chance to see little villages, farms and animals. We stopped in a village where fishing is the main occupation and saw the road side stalls selling all sorts of fresh and sun dried fish and fishy products! Mmm luckily we had already had lunch!!

 

The little town of Vang Vieng is set against the backdrop of the dramatic limestone Lao mountains along a bend on the Song river. The area is very picturesque and the quaint town is popular with tourists but still quiet and peaceful. Our hotel for the night was right on the river front and we each had a little bungalow on stilts. After supper it was lovely to go to sleep with the sounds of frogs and crickets rather than noisy traffic.


Next day we booked a tour to head out of town to trek to a local village, explore caves on tubes and then kayak back down the river to vang Vieng. We all piled into a tuk tuk with kayaks loaded on the roof and set off along the river side road about 20 km out of town. A short hike through the village complete with curious kids, pigs and chickens brought us to a clearing where the river ran straight through a cave. We got into the freezing cold but crystal clear water, sat in tubes and strapped head torches on then using a rope which runs through the cave we propelled ourselves along. It was an amazing sight and the torches shone up the stalagmites and stalagtites in the roof of the caves. After about 40 minutes as our arms were aching we emerged out of the cave and back into the sunshine and the pool. After a quick lunch of barbecued kebabs and fried rice we hiked back to the tuk tuks and drove to the point in the river where we would kayak. It was 9km along the river back to town so I was a little nervous that it would be too tough for me. However one of the guides offered to pair up with me and Chris went with Cherin so we had a great time. Once I had managed to actually clamber into the kayak (not particularly gracefully!) we set off down the river for what was to be an amazing, peaceful and picturesque trip. It took us about two and a half hours to cover the distance past villages and other boats. By the time we got out at the end we both in agony and the front of our thighs were protesting painfully. But we had enjoyed a unique experience and were glad we had let the girls talk us into doing it.






Once back at the hotel I enjoyed a long hot soak in the bath. After a huge variety of bathrooms in the range of hotels we have stayed in it was lovely to have a bath instead of a shower and use the little pot of bubble bath I had been carrying with me since I left home! Perfect timing and well appreciated!

Next morning we were back on the road very early on our longest journey of the whole trip - an 8 hour drive through the mountains to the Unesco heritage listed town of Luang Prabang. The journey was interesting as once again we went through lots of little villages and past fields but the road was very windy and the journey was slow. We stopped at a mountain top cafe for a break and some fresh pineapple and I was fascinated by the loo with a view! As you sit on the loo there is a huge big open view out over the mountains and the valley. Not a soul in sight for miles so no chance of a peeping Tom!



Our guest house in Luang Prabang was a short walk from the town centre. We arrived in time to climb up Mount Phousi in the centre of town. At the summit is Wat Chomsi, a gold spired stupa, from where we watched the most beautiful sunset behind the mountains. Unfortunately dozens of other tourists had the same idea so it was very crowded in the small area but the view was worth the puffing and panting to get to the top.


We then climbed back down and wandered through the night market where locals sell the beautiful woven cloths that are made in the area as well as paper lanterns and other handcrafts.


The next morning we woke up at 5 am for a unique experience, giving alms to the local monks. Monks can only eat food which is given to them so devoted local people get up before sunrise every morning, cook rice and sit on the street waiting for the monks who walk through the streets to accept donations of food which is put into their baskets as they pass by.



As our guide Cherin spent time living in a temple when he was young he understands the custom so we were privileged with his guidance to be able to buy some rice and join in with the ceremony.

After breakfast back at the hotel we caught a tuk tuk and went up into the mountains and visited Kuang Sii waterfalls, impressive 3 tier waterfalls in lush forest vegetation. The limestone rocks form the clear bright blue water which cascades over a number of falls and pools. We swam in the FREEZING blue pools and then spent some time wandering through the forest and it was nice to have a relaxing day. Of all the beautiful waterfalls I have visited over the years I think that these are the most stunning.

 




Nearby there is a bear sanctuary where rescued bears are housed after being trapped and mistreated. These beautiful Asian bears are becoming more and more rare in the wild and it was good to see that this charity is trying to make the world aware of the plight of these animals as well as taking good care of these ones which have been rescued.

 



That evening cherin's recommendation for dinner was the Lao equivalent of a hot rock. A barbecue restaurant where your food is brought for you to cook yourself on a hot wok in the middle of the table. We went for the safe option of chicken and pork while the girls tried water buffalo which they said was delicious! A soup is made in the "moat" around the wok from stock, noodles and vegetables while the meat is grilled in the middle.

 


Next morning was another early start as we set off at 7am on our two day boat trip which would take us up the Mekong river from Luang Prabang to the Thai border. We were lucky to have our own private boat which is designed to carry about 50 people so there was plenty of room for the five of us plus our local guide to relax. The long wooden boat is owned and driven by a local couple who live on the boat for most of the time. we set off when it was barely light so the open sides meant that once we were on the river the wind was freezing so the blankets they gave us to wrap up in we're most welcome. From the boat we had a different view of life in Lao from the river and saw lots of little huts and villages on the dee of the water. It was lovely to have a day to chill and relax as we had had lots of early mornings and busy days.

 




That night we were half way through our journey and just before it got dark we arrived at the village where we to spend the night in a home stay. Luckily we were able to leave our large bags on the boat as it was a steep climb up a narrow cliff path to get to the village. We were welcomed by the villagers and caused quite a bit of interest amongst the children who don't get visitors very often and rarely, if ever, see foreigners. Our guide gave us a tour of the village which has 70 homes and a small primary school. It was very humbling to see how the people live, how hard they work to survive and yet how happy they are. Dozens of kids, dogs, chickens and pigs wander happily around the village in harmony. Supper was served back down on the boat and then we had to make the treacherous hike back up the narrow cliff path in pitch darkness with our torches. We were glad we had taken our overnight bags up earlier. Boys and girls were in different houses so the girls and I were in one house, while Chris shared with our tour leader Cherin and our guide. By the time we got back from dinner our hosts had made up our beds for the night in their front room - a bright pink mosquito net tent with a thin mattress and blanket. I was glad for Mums old sheets that we had carried around with us since we left Zimbabwe. I was also glad that I had thought to use the toilet before I left the boat and not had much to drink as the toilet was a hole in the ground within a pitch black shed beneath the house!

 


As we had sat chatting to the lady who was hosting the men in her house (with the help of our guide translating) by the time we headed to our house for bed at about 9pm the whole village was in darkness and silent except for the odd dog barking. We woke up the lady of the house who got up and turned on the only light in the house which was in our room. She then stood sleepily and waited for us to get into our cocoons so that she could turn the light off. So the 3 of us scuttled into our beds obediently without a wash and were then plunged into pitch blackness! Needless to say the rock hard floor, strange noises outside and inside the house and the fact that every time someone moved the whole house on stilts shook, meant that none of us managed to get any sleep. The sound of the cockerel at 4 am was actually welcome as it meant we did not need to lie there much longer waiting for our 5am wake up call!

We once again made the trip down the cliff in pitch darkness to our boat which was waiting for us on the river. As soon as the first rays of daylight appeared we set off again down the river on the second half of our journey. It wasn't long before we all found a corner on the boat to curl up in and catch up on some sleep.



A few hours later we arrived at the Laos/Thai border. We had to dock on the Laos side first and get a tuk tuk to take us to immigration. After we finished there it was a short hop by a little narrow boat across the Mekong river to the Thai immigration offices. Farewell Laos and hello Thailand !!



Friday 18 January 2013

Tue 15 - Fri 18 Jan - Halong Bay&Hanoi

After a VERY early morning arrival into Hanoi we were straight on a coach for the 3 hour trip to Halong Bay.  We arrived in time for breakfast and after checking in were back on the coach to take us to the nearby port to board our private junk boat for a day trip around the bay.


 We past floating fishing villages where it was fascinating to see how people spent all their lives living and working on a floating raft.  Kids and dogs quite happily play on the decks.  At one point a little wooden boat pulled up against our driven by a young teenager.  Before we knew it 3 small kids ranging from about 3 to 6 had jumped onto our boat and were hanging in the windows trying to sell us bowls of fruit!  Apparently the kids learn to swim before they learn to walk but it was still startling to see how they leapt around the sides of the boat - and I can't imagine where they get the fruit from!  We tied up to one of the rafts and some of the group got into kayaks and went around the bay and had a different view of the floating houses from the water while some of us stayed on board and relaxed - although it was a foggy day so their was no sunbathing!



Our boat then took us to another bay where we got off to explore the most amazing cave which was discovered ten or so years ago by a fisherman who was following a monkey!!  Inside we walked through this huge cavern which has now been lit internally with coloured lights and was fascinating with stalagmites and stalagtites!



In the evening we were taken to yet another lovely local restaurant then explored some of the night market on our way back to the hotel.  We were sorry that we didn't have very long in Halong Bay as it was very peaceful and pretty and we would have like to have had time to explore it more.


Next morning we left to return back to the capital city of Hanoi.  We were sorry to be back in the city with its trafic, noise and dirt but there was lots to see.

Our hotel was located in the old town with its narrow streets and mak\rkets which in the old days must have been quaint but is now chaotic with hundreds of scooters, taxis and cars all hooting constanly.  Nearby was the lake with a pagoda in the middle and we took a walk around it. 

Next day we joined our group for a tour of some of the sights of the city including the Mausoleum where Ho Chi Minh lies embalmed in an open coffin for people to visit.  We joined the queue of people who file past under the watchful eyes of the guards in white uniforms and it was an interesting experience. 

We also visited the prison which was built by the French to house Vietnamese prisoners in terrible conditions and where later captured American pilots were held.  It is now a museum and it was interesting to read about the war from the Vietnamese point of view!!



In the evening we went for our final dinner before our tour ends and we all visited the Hanoi water puppet theatre.  This was similar to the one we had visited in Ho Chi Minh but even better as they explained the story in English as well as Vietnamese and we understood more of the tradiotions and customs depicted in the show now that we had travelled from South to North Vietnam and learnt so much of the history, traditions and customs of the local people.



It was a great way to end our wonderful time in Vietnam before we said goodbye to 12 of our 14 travel companions who were finishing their tour.  Only Chris and I  plus 2 other girls will be continuing with our guide Charin on the next leg of our journey through Laos to Thailand.